"Without them, there would be no Chaource": the milk producers of the famous cheese are on display all summer long

Their names are Fabien, Véronique, Rémy, Jean-Baptiste, Daisy, Arnaud, and Marc. This Wednesday, June 18, in the halls of the Aube Prefecture in Troyes, the challenge was to recognize them, "in civilian clothes," among the guests. On either side of the room, all these milk producers were captured on glossy paper, in their work clothes and in their usual surroundings.

As part of its efforts to promote the Chaource AOP milk sector, the Othe-Armance PETR (Territorial and Rural Balance Pole) commissioned photographer Olivier Gobert to take photographs of the first link in the chain leading to Chaource. The protected designation of origin area straddles the departments of Aube and Yonne , but in the Othe-Armance region alone, the milk sector represents 150 direct jobs.

In early 2024, a survey was conducted among 47 of the 53 farms in the Chaource PDO, including 32 in Othe-Armance, to determine their needs. "They are particularly eager for consideration and exposure," emphasizes Roger Bataille, president of the PETR Othe-Armance. "This exhibition will allow the general public to learn about their activities, their daily activities, and their relationships with animals. We wanted it to be installed outdoors."

It's all in the title: "Proud of our breeders." Starting Wednesday, July 2, the exhibition will be on display in the three town centers of the Othe-Armance region: Aix-Villemaur-Pâlis, Ervy-le-Châtel , and Chaource. Pascal Courtade, Prefect of Aube and host of this inauguration, insisted on the "identity" of this exhibition. "The word doesn't always get across well, but it is important to keep our agricultural identity alive."

In Aube, there are still 72 dairy farmers. These include Daisy and Arnaud Oudin, from the Ferme de la Feulie in Chaource. The former posed among her cows. "We're always looking for consumer recognition," she explains. "It's also a way to immortalize things. These photos are now anchored in time."

According to the couple, the connection between the population and farmers has weakened over time. "These photos are also a way to enter the farms. Before, everyone knew at least one farmer. Today, that's no longer the case. We want to showcase our professions and show what really happens on farms. This exhibition is a first step in revealing our daily lives," emphasizes Arnaud Oudin. "People sometimes have an archaic and outdated image of the farming profession," adds his wife.

In 2024, 2,445 tonnes of Chaource were produced, a slight increase compared to the 2,436 tonnes in 2023 (+0.4%). President of the Chaource cheese defense union, Didier Lincet, is confident in the future of the sector but remains vigilant: "It's important to take an outside look at these farms that provide us with a living and feed us. Without all these farmers who work every day, there would be no Chaource."

"Our producers are proud of their profession, but it is sometimes too little known. In the Chaource sector, we are fortunate to have few breeders who are seriously discouraged . The economic activity is buoyant. It is a guarantee of stability and allows cheese dairies to commit to the long term and to milk value prices." Over the last ten years, half of the milk-producing farms have been renewed with a change of generation. Didier Lincet sees this as "a strong indicator of our attractiveness."